The usually peaceful station took on a cheerful atmosphere. Families and friends gather in the morning sun on platform 1 anticipating the arrival of the historical train. A group of musicians play Italian folk songs while we wait, everyone dancing and singing along.
No doubt you’ve heard of the Trans Siberian Railway from Russia to Mongolia or China. But have you heard about the much shorter Transiberian railway in Abruzzo, Italy?
La Transiberiana d’Italia
Affectionately nicknamed the Transiberiana d’Italia the line runs from Sulmona in Abruzzo to Isernia in Molise, crossing through 2 national parks and a nature reserve. The line first opened in 1897 but was closed in October of 2011. In 2012, the line was reformed for a trial period for tourist trains. In 3 years the train carried more than 30,000 people. The historical train runs day trips with themes on weekends every month from Sulmona to various locations. My train, in May, was the “train of forests” starting in Sulmona and going to Carovilli with stops in Palena and San Pietro Avellana. In the winter the train runs to the popular skiing town of Roccaraso. You could get off at any stop and spend the day until the train comes back to pick you up. Group tours were also organized in San Pietro Avellana and Carovilli.
The Ride
The train chugs into the station, we board into our assigned cars and seats, the whistle blows and we’re off. The well preserved train gleamed with wooden interior throughout, the train is a museum of a time past. My face is plastered to the window; the scenery is absolutely stunning. We whip past small villages perched on mountain sides and hills. We travel through forests and mountains still covered in snow. The region of Abruzzo is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been and is the home of my Italian ancestors.
Our first stop is Palena in the Majella National Park. Everywhere you look is green with rolling hills on either side and mountains further in the distance. We exit onto the grass and make our way to the small station. A market of local products and food is set up for us. A couple of guys are grilling up arrosticini and sausages. I can’t decide which I want so I have both, never mind the fact that I’ll be eating a big traditional lunch soon. While we wander around the stalls tasting cheese and honey, our traveling band starts to play a tarantella and the dancing begins; it’s a lively scene that I don’t want to end.
Back on the train we travel to San Pietro Avellana, half the train disembarks for their group tours or to explore alone. I ride on to Carovilli to meet up with my tour for a traditional lunch and visit to the small borgo of Pescolanciano in Molise. While I’ve traveled a lot in the region of Abruzzo, I haven’t spent any time in Molise. I’m excited to see as much as I can. Abruzzo and Molise were actually one region until 1963 when Molise split from Abruzzo to become the youngest region in Italy.
Once our lunch and tour are complete, we head back to the station for our return trip to Sulmona. I am less enthusiast about the trip back, partly because I want to see more and because I’ve indulged at lunch and a nap sounds great. Halfway through the trip and our traveling group of musicians arrive to our car. They are here to liven things up. They hand out a bunch of instruments for everyone to play and the party starts.
The best thing about the day was that the train was filled with generations of Italians. Whether they were visiting from somewhere else or the family just decided to make a day of it, they added greatly to the experience, they added to the culture of the day. Abruzzo is called the Green Heart of Italy and while it’s certainly green, it’s the heart part that sticks out to me the most and will have me coming back every chance I get.
La Transiberiana d’Italia Information
Schedules are posted on the lerotaie.com in Italian. Unfortunately there is no english translation on the site. Most rides can be booked on the site but some go through travel agents. All dates sell out pretty quickly so you need to book in advance. You can also book through latransiberianaditalia.com
How to get to Sulmona
There are direct trains from Rome Termini station to Sulmona in the afternoon starting at 2:40pm. The ride takes approx 2.5 hours. There are other connecting trains running at other times of the day that usually connect through Avezzano and take about 4.5 hours. Direct trains returning from Sulmona to Rome start in the morning around 6:19am. Note these are Intercity or Regional trains so there are often delays.
The station in Sulmona is outside the city center, it’s a beautiful 30 minute walk from the station if you don’t have much luggage. There are also buses from the station into town; the bus skirts the outside of the historic center so make sure to tell the driver where you want to get off.
Sulmona
Sulmona is a city located in the province of L’Aquila in Abruzzo. Most of my trips into Abruzzo usually begin or end in Sulmona given its easy access to Rome. Abruzzo, for me, isn’t about sightseeing, it’s about walking or relaxing with a glass of wine and taking in the natural beauty of the area and experiencing true Italian culture. Sulmona has a great tourist center and they are wonderful about helping you to plan your trip. Be sure to indulge in confetti while in Sulmona, the sugar coated almonds you see at Italian wedding. Confetti doesn’t just come as almonds, pick up a variety pack and pick your favorite! My favorite is the cinnamon bark. Sulmona also has one of the best markets on Saturdays and Wednesday in Piazza Garibaldi.
Where to stay in Sulmona
La Locanda di Gino-A family owned business which includes a guesthouse, restaurant and store of typical products. If anything, don’t miss out on the restaurant, it’s fantastic. lalocandadigino.it
Hotel Armando’s-I’ve stayed here several times. It’s slightly outside the city center and great if you have a car. It’s quiet and relaxing and is not far from the city center. hotelarmandos.it
B&B Sei Stelle-One day I hope to stay here. The location is perfect overlooking the main square Piazza Garibaldi bbseistelle.com